Meili Sunrise, Ming Yong Glacier
Xin woke us up early - as soon
as he realised how lucky we'd been in getting a beautifully clear morning for the sunrise. It was spectacular - starting with just the snow-covered mountain peaks glowing in the black sky, slowly they brightened and then so did the sky, and then the pink morning sunlight caught the tips of the mountains and the whole scene was incredible. Even some Buddhist's best efforts to spoil the scene by putting smoky stuff in the kiln didn't work. Having said that you can see why he migh
t have wanted to make it warmer - it was surely below freezing.
The challenge after our "British Breakfast" was to climb the steep horse path of Meili Mountain up to Ming Yong Glacier. We climbed up amidst the autumn colours again (for about 1-1/2 hours) past the upper mule station and then it became evident why we couldn't go walking on this glacier - there wasn't a flat part in sight. The whole thing was a melee of grey and white spikes and gullies, twisting its way down the mountainside - probably rather easy to fall into!
Once again, at the top viewpoint we were snagged by a couple of Chinese from Guangzhong, who wanted us in their photo. This time however we also have photographic evidence of their strange desire. The way back down was no less rewarding for paparazzi with another two groups wanting pics - the first one a
ccusing us of looking like John Coffee (who?! - I can only think of the dude from Green Mile and he's huge and black) and the second telling Martin he looked like Phillip Schofield - a definite resemblance there hey Martin?!
We stopped for lunch and a brief glimpse of the film "Heartbreak Hill" at a restaurant opposite the biggest guesthous
e in town. A guesthouse which now belongs to one of Xin's old colleagues who used to have almost nothing. Not to worry though - becaome a tour guide and get a rich girl pregnant so you have to marry her and with it you get her guesthouse!
Passing through the Tibetan town of Deqin we saw what appeared to be a boned and gutted yak's carcass (but still with tail) hanging outside a butchers. Well it was, except it wasn't a butchers - it was a restaurant. Apparently, if you're Tibeta
n, the way to advertise that you have fresh yak is to hang it outside your restaurant to coax your customers in - I can't see this catching-on at home. At about this point Xin asked me why we couldn't do this in the UK so I got to explain all about the Food Standards Agency and Health Inspectors.
Dinner was at the same place in Benzi La
n after which we found a hotel with no English name and for once it didn't want our passports (great retreat if you're fleeing the officials). After asking for the internet (there really is nothing else to do once its dark in some of these places) we got led up the darkest, most sinister-looking flight of stairs between two buildings I've ever seen and arrived at...a surprisingly welcoming internet cafe. Don't judge a book by its cover...
as he realised how lucky we'd been in getting a beautifully clear morning for the sunrise. It was spectacular - starting with just the snow-covered mountain peaks glowing in the black sky, slowly they brightened and then so did the sky, and then the pink morning sunlight caught the tips of the mountains and the whole scene was incredible. Even some Buddhist's best efforts to spoil the scene by putting smoky stuff in the kiln didn't work. Having said that you can see why he migh
t have wanted to make it warmer - it was surely below freezing.The challenge after our "British Breakfast" was to climb the steep horse path of Meili Mountain up to Ming Yong Glacier. We climbed up amidst the autumn colours again (for about 1-1/2 hours) past the upper mule station and then it became evident why we couldn't go walking on this glacier - there wasn't a flat part in sight. The whole thing was a melee of grey and white spikes and gullies, twisting its way down the mountainside - probably rather easy to fall into!
Once again, at the top viewpoint we were snagged by a couple of Chinese from Guangzhong, who wanted us in their photo. This time however we also have photographic evidence of their strange desire. The way back down was no less rewarding for paparazzi with another two groups wanting pics - the first one a
ccusing us of looking like John Coffee (who?! - I can only think of the dude from Green Mile and he's huge and black) and the second telling Martin he looked like Phillip Schofield - a definite resemblance there hey Martin?!We stopped for lunch and a brief glimpse of the film "Heartbreak Hill" at a restaurant opposite the biggest guesthous
e in town. A guesthouse which now belongs to one of Xin's old colleagues who used to have almost nothing. Not to worry though - becaome a tour guide and get a rich girl pregnant so you have to marry her and with it you get her guesthouse!Passing through the Tibetan town of Deqin we saw what appeared to be a boned and gutted yak's carcass (but still with tail) hanging outside a butchers. Well it was, except it wasn't a butchers - it was a restaurant. Apparently, if you're Tibeta
n, the way to advertise that you have fresh yak is to hang it outside your restaurant to coax your customers in - I can't see this catching-on at home. At about this point Xin asked me why we couldn't do this in the UK so I got to explain all about the Food Standards Agency and Health Inspectors.Dinner was at the same place in Benzi La
n after which we found a hotel with no English name and for once it didn't want our passports (great retreat if you're fleeing the officials). After asking for the internet (there really is nothing else to do once its dark in some of these places) we got led up the darkest, most sinister-looking flight of stairs between two buildings I've ever seen and arrived at...a surprisingly welcoming internet cafe. Don't judge a book by its cover...
posted by Ian Matthias at
11/23/2006 10:07:00 am
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